4.5/5 Chilies

As two friends who once bonded over hunting down Asian noodle shops in the Spanish capitol of Madrid, my dining partner and I switched gears and searched for some quality Latin fare in Syracuse.

We didn’t have to go far. Scrunched in the center of a crowded strip of stores on Westcott Street, its fluorescent lights bouncing off the pale walls, Las Delicias’ Latin American- and Caribbean-influenced dishes were a flavorful surprise.

The menu read like the best-eats list from our southern neighbors: Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, Cuba and the Caribbean, to name a few. The menu had me craving mofongo, a dish of mashed plantains that I had never tried before, but heard was a delicious Latin staple. But when I lined up to place my order I was instantly faced with the dilemma of vibrant mounds of yellow rice and oxtail stew simmering behind the glass display.

All was saved when my friend gladly volunteered to get the mofongo con chicharrones de pollo, ($10.95). Our plates were wider than our heads and generously piled up. I didn’t know what to expect of the mofongo; I thought it might be too mushy for my taste. But it turns out the mofongo was solid and had a slightly chewy consistency. The flavor was surprisingly starchy and reminded me a bit of polenta, a great pairing with the strips of moist, boldly seasoned chicken.

My oxtail stew and yellow rice ($10.35) was a little difficult to get off the bone, but very tender and flavorful. Oxtail has natural flavor that should be emphasized, not added to, and the rich herbs and veggies it had been stewing in did just that. The yellow rice mixed with green olives was the perfect companion. Between the two of our dishes and the relatively tiny space at Las Delicias, my friend and I agreed that it felt like we were eating a hearty, home-cooked meal made just for the two of us.

Fully aware of how much we can eat, we both indulged in some side dishes that were equally delicious and dynamic in flavor. The list of empanada choices was hard to chose from: chicken, broccoli, guava, cinnamon and apples all sounded like good bets. My dining partner got a traditional beef empanada ($1.45) that came out fresh from the oven, steam floating up from its crisp edges. The ground beef inside was warm with a little spice to it, an otherwise simple patty that perfectly hit the spot.

French fries are my ultimate vice, so I was intrigued by the yuca fritas ($4.50) variation. The yuca was cut into thick steak fries and cooked exactly how I love fries — a crisp crunch outside and smooth inside. Alone, the texture was what really stood out, but with the addition of some ketchup and hot sauce, the woody, nutty flavor of the root was highlighted and really helped it stand out.

In retrospect, the yuca flavor would have benefited from banana ketchup, a popular Philippine condiment made from mashed banana, sugar, vinegar and spices. But normal ketchup worked too.

As we ate, we found our shoulders shifting slightly back and forth with the soft Spanish music playing in the otherwise quiet dining area. The occasional pot would clang from the open kitchen behind the counter followed by the choppy mix of Spanish and English exchanged between staff members.

The staff didn’t offer up any fake smiles or flowery welcomes. They were direct and to the point, which could come off as blunt, even rude. But the woman behind the counter was, in fact, conversational and helpfully decisive in making my order while the woman who brought us our food had a warm, friendly smile. Both of them treated us like we’d been coming in every Monday night for the past four years. A part of me wishes we had been.

Published on October 24, 2012 at 12:50 am

Contact Danielle: [email protected] | @daniemarieodie