The formula for a successful reality show: make extravagant people do extravagant things in extravagant places. Every reality show is a variation of this outline with a varying degree of extravagance. The better ones hit all three marks. For example, CBS’s ‘The Amazing Race’ consistently delivers exciting challenges and exotic locations. Since the Emmy Awards created a reality-competition category in 2003, the show has won every year. Except, that is, in 2010 when it lost to ‘Top Chef.’

For those unfamiliar, ‘Top Chef’ is a cooking competition show. The current ninth season is in Texas. Each season, chefs partake in a series of challenges each week. The first is a quickfire challenge, which forces the contestants to cook something ridiculous in only an hour. Here, they can either win immunity, prizes or a leg up in the next round. For example, in one of this season’s opening challenges, the chefs chose items from a platter. Then, judge Padma Lakshmi revealed that each ingredient was attached to a cook time of 20, 40 or 60 minutes. The second is the much more elaborate elimination challenge. They cook, go to a judging table and the one with the worst dish is sent home. Pretty standard format.

However, ‘Top Chef’ offers some unique elements that other shows lack, starting with its over-the-top people. Chefs have enormous egos. That won’t change on any other cooking show or reality show, really. But on ‘Top Chef,’ the egos generally have the skills to back it up. Take, for example, this season’s Ty-Lör Boring, a man as annoying as his name. He’s cocky, but his food is delicious enough to push him forward. These aren’t ‘Hell’s Kitchen’ train wrecks. These are some of the best up-and-coming chefs in the country being pushed to their creative brinks by a wealth of challenges. They all fight like any other reality show, but at least there is a delicious plate of roasted lamb medallions with Maitake mushrooms, braised pistachios and blackberry for us to marvel at.

Then, there are the judges, led by eye-candy host Lakshmi and head judge chef Tom Colicchio. These are experts who are incredibly honest and quick to quip, and who grow to love the contestants throughout the season. Former judge Anthony Bourdain has commented that the chef with the worst food always goes home. As much as the producers would love to keep the ‘cute one’ around, if she had a bad day, she’s gone. Also, having seen almost every season of the show, there are patterns and certain recipes for destruction. Anyone who opts for the canned goods or frozen foods will get slammed at the judges’ table. Premade pasta? This isn’t Applebee’s, you amateur. Pack your knives. You’re going home.

The challenges are a blast as well. In past seasons, chefs created entrees from snacks in a vending machine and made airplane food seem incredible. This season, only two episodes in, has yet to bring out the crazy, but they are certainly in the works. Those limiting competitions definitely make for the most fun because they draw the creativity out of the chefs. Back in season three, given only cereal to use, contestant Hung Huynh crushed it up and turned his plate into what he called a ‘Smurf village,’ complete with a river, foliage and mountains. Everyone laughed, but hey, he ended up winning the show.

‘Top Chef’ is a reality show and stammers into many of the pitfalls of the genre. There’s intentional tension building by highlighting struggling contestants, and the contestants talk on length about tough times back home. But it’s one of the more enjoyable ones, all the way through. Even for viewers who don’t exactly love food, it offers a breezy bit of chewing gum for the mind. It’s nothing revelatory or mind bending, but it’s a nice way to spend an hour each week salivating over food.

[email protected]

Published on November 13, 2011 at 12:00 pm

Contact Jeff: [email protected]